Kiyoko Isoda is a slight, elderly woman who runs a well-kept country inn in the small fishing village of Taiji, in western Japan, and it is safe to say she wouldn't know Ricky Gervais if he spilled a pot of hot green tea in her lap. Or Canadian rocker Bryan Adams, for that matter, or American actress Hayden Panettiere, or any of the many other celebrities—major and minor—who availed themselves of social media earlier this year to vent about an annual event in what used to be a quiet place few people had heard of
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