For a certain kind of Russian, Kiev holds a particular attraction. Although the standard of living in Ukraine is still low by either Moscow or European standards, Kiev is a bilingual city. Russian emigres don’t have to give up their language. More to the point, its new government doesn’t discourage writers, journalists and activists. Long dismissed by many Russians — and by almost everyone else — as nothing more than a provincial capital, Kiev is set to become an intellectual refuge for those who find Moscow too oppressive.