In the broad square adjacent to the magnificent Salzburg Cathedral, dozens of vendors have erected their annual Christmas market, where they sell Christmas tree ornaments fashioned in the shapes of reindeer and polished wooden figurines. The frosty air hums with the conversations of Salzburgers and visitors by the thousands, gathering in small groups to sip gluhwein, the hot spiced wine that announces the season. Inside the baroque cathedral, however, silent is the night in a majestic but empty cavern of worship.
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