On New Year's Day 2011, I woke up in a hotel on one of the islands that are scattered across the Nile in Aswan. Ancient structures, fashioned thousands of years ago, decorate this fine city – and, just five years ago, attracted visitors in their thousands. While whispers of an “Arab Spring” took hold in Tunisia, to the east, Egypt was shining bright as a tourist destination. The murderous attacks on historic sites and resorts had been quelled, and foreign visitors were flocking in.
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