Over the last seven years, as a journalist, I have traveled frequently to Iraq. I always move about without protection and stay with families in private homes, trying to blend in as much as I can. Each time I visit, I find a new country. In the wake of the carnage of 2006 and 2007, Iraq was paralyzed by fear. Now, though sporadic violence continues, overall security has improved to the point that President Obama has formally declared an end to America’s combat role, and the Iraqi authorities themselves are responsible for maintaining order.
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