Guadalupe Cáceres stands in her living room and points at the vintage tiles on the floor. Her family has lived for 127 years on this plot of land in Campeche, a colonial-era town on the Yucatán peninsula that still boasts ramparts erected after attacks by marauding Caribbean pirates. Now, a $7.8bn government rail project is set to rip through the middle of her single-storey blue-and-white painted home.